My usual Sunday morning visit to the fishing village near Pondicherry, India, has been the same for the nearly twenty years I have visited that bit of the medieval world, except that today I have been invited to a Puja performed by Ragu, the village ecstatic. Ragu had been hidden from me all these years for fear that I would not approve of such things. The villagers watched and tested me in many ways before they would allow me close to their private thoughts and ceremonies. It is only this morning that they are going to trust me with Ragu, the spiritual head of their village.
It is a tiny village, perhaps five hundred people, on the very edge of the ocean ten miles north of Pondicherry, a hundred miles south of the large city of Madras. This brings it to twelve degrees north latitude, well within the intensity of the tropics.
This village is thoroughly rooted in the medieval world and except for the fact that the fishing nets are made of nylon instead of coconut fiber, little has changed in a thousand years. Their boats - called catamarans - are made without any metal parts and consist simply of shaped wood sections sewn together with coconut fiber. The name catamaran has gone over the entire world now and denotes “double boat” in the Tamil language. The involuntary fantasy always grips my mind as I approach the village that this is what would survive if India’s attempt to be a modern nation should collapse. Without electricity and oil fuel the urban parts of India would collapse in a month. Such a collapse is not unlikely, but the small villages would continue as they always have, independent of oil fuel or electricity. Fish from the sea and the generous coconut trees would make a simple living for such a village.
The rickshaw driver is a young man, Selveraj, who attached himself to me several years ago. India functions on an intricate system of personal ownership and Selveraj and I have such a tie between us. I go to the village in a rickshaw since my ability for either a bicycle or small moped is impaired. I hire him by the week, and he devotes himself to discerning my needs and schedule, which I think he knows better than I do.
Selveraj’s wife died three years ago, and he and his ten year old son, Rama, make up one of the thin little families that live on the street in front of my guest house. When I find Selveraj to take me to the dining hall in the morning I see the two of them wrapped up in their single blanket making a ragged bundle lying on the sidewalk. All of their possessions are within arms reach and covered by a plastic tarp no larger than their own dimensions. Birth, death, cooking, eating, worship, all goes on in that small space.
We go through the early morning traffic of the city streets, out through the suburbs, then through coconut groves, little hamlets and through a regression in time of a thousand years. We turn off the main road, glad to be rid of the trucks.
When we walk from the rickshaw the boys fairly carry us down the lane and there is high competition to see who can carry the backpack and much jostling to peer into the sack to see what treat I have brought this time. Pens, candies, balls, marbles. If I pay Selveraj Rps l00 a day, that leaves him a meager income considering that the Rupee is purchased for U. S. $.03 when I cash a travelers check. For years the children have been coming out to meet us at a particular spot and run along the rickshaw with abandon of joy to sweep us in. They cannot wait to see the tall man who has blue eyes, white skin and who comes from far away. It has been a a slow progression to see the boys learn to sit in a circle and take their treats with some order. At first they were so afraid of this man from far away that they would only hide behind the coconut trees and take their gift second-hand from one of the villagers. Now some of the boys have known me since their birth. The most recent addition is that the girls come now, a dreadful breach of village etiquette but somehow permissible.
Babu meets us and serves as our chief means of communication with the village. He is in his thirties, a fisherman. Babu takes us to his father’s house where we sit on coconut mats and are “viewed.” Soon we go to Babu’s house - children fairly carrying us along the lane - and are offered something to eat or drink. This is obligatory and made a severe problem at first. The village has no sense of hygiene, and I can not take food or drink without becoming violently ill. One day I found the exact description of the dilemma of a Westerner and an Indian in this respect: my Indian friend was worrying about the caste of the person who was pouring a drink for me while I was worrying about whether the water had been boiled or not. Contamination flies under many definitions! I finally found a way out by professing a great liking for fresh green coconut cut open with a machete, and I could drink the fresh, sweet milk. They get me a coconut. The villagers are often sick and typhoid, dysentery and every amoeba, worm and parasite known to man. So I profess no liking for the soft coconut meat, sometimes affectionatly known as tropical ice cream.
Ragu is 24 years old, looks l8 as all Indians look several years younger than they are by chronological age. When he appears i realize that I have known Ragu for several years but they kept the fact from me that he was a holy person. Next I am horrified to see the lighted cube of camphor drawn into Ragu’s mouth, making a wonderful/terrible moment when the light was shining through his white teeth just before the flame disappeared. Ragu loses consciousness and goes into a trance during ceremonial times and has no memory or trace of what happens to him. In the big festivals he is attached to a cart carrying the image of God from the temple and pulls it by means of a dozen fish lines with the hooks pierced though the large muscles of his arms and back.
Babu recites the long incantations and mantras, and the God image is decked with flowers.
Ragu is given handfuls of Neem leaves to eat, until he begins to tremble and find his way into the spirit world where he can converse with the Gods. Babu asked him to consult the Gods on various matters important to the village for that day and Ragu replied in his high pitched voice which is the God speech. I pressured Babu later to tell me some of the conversation with the Gods and only got the information that the Gods had objected to the barbarian foreigner who had such bad manners as to sit on a chair for the Puja instead of being in lotus position on the floor. Ragu explained that foreigners were uneducated people and were to be forgiven for their vulgarity. The Gods asked that a cube of solidified camphor be put on Ragu's tongue again and lighted as a sign of good faith. I understood that the triumph of the spirit over flesh was exactly what primitive people need to counterbalance their earthy life.
If wholeness is the great goal of human consciousness, then it would follow that earth bound people would need as dramatic a triumph of the spirit as they could find. I have been meditating ever since that probably we, more detached from the earthiness of life than any people in history, need earthing as desperately. When it was all over, I again saw the happy smiling teenager without a conscious trace of his consorting with the Gods.
-- Robert Johnson India Journal, 1996